Raffles 1887
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City of lakes and castles in the sky
JOE MORTIMER finds that honour, religion and romance entwine within the ancient walls of Udaipur, where the rulers of Mewar built castles in the sky.
THE leaden skies above Lake Pichola burst, drenching the world in a furious torrent. Plump raindrops pummel the flagstones of Gangaur Ghat, rinsing away the clouds of crimson gulal powder and saffron-coloured petals scattered during the morning’s festivities around the quay. As locals and tourists scramble in all directions, covered doorways and the grand arches of Bagore Ki Haveli provide temporary shelter from the downpour, and the City of Lakes is purified once more.
Like its fabled palaces, ancient temples and sprawling fortifications, Udaipur is a monument shaped by layer upon layer of history, expanded by generations of obsessive Maharanas in an era when existential wars were fought for love and pride. The city was founded by Udar Singh II in the 16th century, having fled the destruction wrought by Mughal armies on Chittorgarh Fort, former capital of the Kingdom of Mewar. A chance encounter with a hermit during a hunting expedition led to the spot where Udaipur was founded on the shores of Lake Pichola.
Cradled by the imposing peaks of the Aravalli Ranges, which separate southern Rajasthan from the great Thar Desert in the north-west, the fertile Udaipur valley was the perfect place to start anew. Today, the seven lakes that surround the city form a network of waterways fed by the Ahar River, shaped over the centuries to irrigate farmlands and provide drinking water for the population.
Pichola and its neighbour, Fateh Sagar Lake, provide a contemplative counterpoint to the throng of the walled city. Shrouded in mist, still as glass or whipped into a maelstrom by monsoon rains, the lakes provide space to breathe, a reprieve from the tumult of modern India.
The seething sea of humanity that surges through the streets – the clamorous processions that erupt day and night, the relentless tide of motorbikes, scooters, bicycles and rickshaws and the mounds of colourful spices and exotic vegetables piled up in Hathi Pol’s market stalls – flows to the backdrop of towering temples and imposing palaces hewn into hillsides or afloat in its lakes; the age-old foundations of present-day Udaipur.
The city’s history seems so vast and proud that trying to unravel it in a few days seems an insurmountable challenge. But in the company of an expert guide, it is possible to see the best of Udaipur in a couple of busy, well-planned days, assuming the weather holds.
Begin in Saheliyon Ki Bari, the Garden of the Maidens. A tropical oasis of shaded courtyards, lotus ponds and marble pavilions draped in bougainvillea, the ornamental gardens were built more than three centuries ago by Maharana Sangram Singh II as a gift for his young bride and her 48 maidens.
If the gardens represent a reprieve from urban life, Udaipur City Palace is its very heart: the home, fortress and seat of power for the rulers of Mewar. The first stones were laid in 1559 on the hilly shore of Lake Pichola, and six kilometres of defensive walls were hastily built around the new city to deter marauding Mughal armies. In Mewar’s long history, Udaipur is the only city never to have fallen to the Mughals, and nearly 400 summers passed before Indian independence in 1947 brought an end to the kingdom, which was absorbed into the newly formed state of Rajasthan.
A formidable citadel of 11 entwined palaces with colonnaded corridors, domed chambers, regal temples, stately courtyards and jharokha balconies – reflecting a mélange of Mewari and Mughal architectural styles – it was within these walls that the great drama of royal life played out daily. Despite being bleached by time and the elements, the great walls still evoke a sense of what the palace must have been like in its heyday, each courtyard aglow in the light of flickering torches and candles, reflecting from alcoves and ceilings inlaid with mirrors and semi-precious stones.
An elevated palace balcony frames views of Lake Pichola’s treasures: Jag Mandir (Lake Island Palace) where the young Prince Khurram, who would go on to become Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, sought sanctuary from his Mughal brethren; and Jag Niwas (Lake Palace), which 007 fans will recognise as the lair of the Bond-villain in Octopussy.
Long before Udaipur was founded, the town of Nagda, 23 kilometres away, was the capital of the Mewar Kingdom. Of all the temples built to honour the Hindu gods, the early 11th-century Saas-Bahu complex is perhaps the most lovely, an artistic masterpiece built by Mahipala of Kachwaha as an ode to feminine beauty.
Panthers still roam the hills surrounding mountain-top hideaway Sajjan Garh Palace, which was built by young ruler, Maharana Sajjan Singh, so he could watch the approaching rains and study the night sky. Today known as Monsoon Palace, its marble walls, towering pillars and grand archways frame the romance of the city and provide the perfect setting from which to watch the sun sink behind the Aravallis as it paints the skies lilac and turns Udaipur into a dusky lavender watercolour that twinkles in the twilight.
Photography by Aryan Khan
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